Wednesday, 18 March 2015

How to grow your own mulch?

Growing my own mulch has long been a goal of mine. We use a lot of mulch in the nursery and garden and at the moment we have no problem sourcing straw but if/when the day comes that the farmers start using their own straw to improve their soil (which is becoming a more common practice), We'll be needing to step up our mulch growing efforts.


Currently, we grow enough mulch to sustain the perennial beds and around 10 % of the annual beds but rely on imported straw for mulching the other 90% of annual vegetable and nursery beds.

During this post, we'll look at what makes good mulch, a range of plants that we use for mulch and some possibilities for growing mulch for broad-scale use.

Mulch Growing in the Garden 

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What makes a good mulch plant? 


My ideal mulch plant grows fast, is drought tolerant, competes minimally with crop plants, does not contain seeds that easily spreads, is easy to handle and cut, i.e,  not thorny/prickly or tough and fibrous, and can biodegrade relatively quickly (thereby returning the nutrients back to soil).

I've broadly categorized the main sources of mulch we produce in our 1500 m2 garden and 2500 m2 market garden.

Aquatic Plants 

We grow emergent wetland species such as cattails (Typha spp), sedges (Carex spp. ) and rushes (Juncus spp.) on the banks of a small pond (6m x 3m), and within a grey water reed bed (1m x 6m). The pond also provides suitable habitat for hornworts - Ceratophyllum spp. a submerged rootless perennial that gathers on the surface en masse. This plant makes an excellent mulch being rich in nitrogen, growing very fast and is easy to position around the base of plants. The emergent species provide a good thick carbon-rich mulch that helps to reduce evaporation on the terrestrial beds and we cut these back in the spring in case they are used for overwintering invertebrates. Aquatic plants are an excellent source of mulch as there are no issues with seed germinating amongst your land-based crops.

The wildlife pond, aka 'the mulch machine'  

Tap rooted Perennial/ Biennials

Deep-rooted perennial plants tend to produce a good amount of biomass, are generally drought tolerant and do not compete strongly with our crop plants. I have found native biennial weeds such as greater burdock - Arctium lappa a very useful mulch plant with the gigantic leaves growing back very fast after a cut. Lesser burdock - Arctium minus is also useful albeit to a lesser extent :) Although biennial, if you cut back these plants before flowering you can prolong their life, harvesting good quantities of seed-free biomass. It's good to allow some of the plants to flower as they are much loved by bees among other insects.

Comfrey- Symphytum x uplandicum 'Bocking 14' is a classic example of a deep-rooted mulch plant. We have the plant scattered throughout the garden and planted in dedicated mulch production patches. The plants do require irrigation however and will only provide good leaf yields if grown on fertile soil. For more on comfrey check out our blog article here. We are also using comfrey in an experimental perennial polyculture we call the biomass belt, dedicated to growing mulch see here more on this.   

A Perennial Polyculture dedicated to growing Mulch. - The Biomass Belt   



Helianthus tuberosus - Jerusalem Artichoke provides a great source of biomass. For a good tuber harvest its best to wait until the end of the season before harvesting the mulch. We can never consume as much as we produce of these tubers in the kitchen but have found them to be much appreciated by our pigs and an excellent source of fresh winter food for our rabbits.

 Leaves of Greater Burdock - Arctium lappa 

Nitrogen Fixing Trees and Shrubs 

These plants take a while to establish but make an excellent contribution. I've had good results from coppicing Paulownia tomentosa - Empress Tree when they are 3 yrs old and chop and dropping the soft new growth 3 or 4 times a year.  I am expecting to also see good results from  Alnus incana - Grey Alder and Alnus cordata - Italian Alder.  I avoid using thorny nitrogen-fixing trees and shrubs for this purpose. Annual trimming of shrubs such as  Elaeagnus umbellata - Autumn Olive and Cytisus scoparius - Broom also provides good quantities of mulch.  For more info on nitrogen fixation and nitrogen fixing plants see our previous post Nitrogen Fixation - How it Works and a Look at Some Super Nitrogen Fixing Trees, Shrubs and Herbs.



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Lawn and Ground Cover 

One of my favourite sources of mulch is lawn trimmings. They are great for mulching potted plants or applying a mulch into tight spots.  Mixed species lawns will contain a more diverse mix of mineral nutrients, and lawns including a legume such as Trifolim repens - White Clover can provide a nitrogen rich mulch. It's a good idea to leave some of the trimmings behind to keep the lawn healthy.  

Bellis perennis, Trifolium pratense, Taraxadum officinale amongst others in our lawn 

Autumn Leaf Fall and Herbaceous Stem Residue. 

The annual shedding of leaves from trees and shrubs in our garden make a great contribution to our mulch capital. Leaves can be cleared from paths,  lawns and wildflower beds (as they will disrupt the growth in these areas) and concentrated where they are of benefit such as the base of high demanding fruiting shrubs such as Blackcurrants or Blackberries.

Herbaceous perennials such as Mellisa officinalis - Lemon Balm and  Mentha spp.- Mints will provide dead stems annually. It's always a good idea to leave hollow stems of some herbaceous perennials to remain for the winter as they are utilized by invertebrates for egg-laying and hibernating. If the plant does not have a hollow stem it can be cut back and used for mulch. Foeniculum vulgare - Fennel provides large quantities of biomass and as far as I can tell the stems are not utilized by organisms over the winter.

In the vegetable garden all the remnants of my crops after harvesting go straight back to the surface for recycling.

Foeniculum vulgare and other herbaceous perennials

Tree Prunings

Woody prunings from shrubs, trees, and vines cut into small pieces (5-10cm) make good mulch in the mature areas of the forest garden with well established fungal soils specializing in breaking down the lignified woody material.

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Living Mulches 

In the more mature areas of the garden where the trees have established (5 yrs and older), I have dispensed with mulch all together in favor of ground cover plants that can be considered living mulches. Some of the most successful perennial living mulches I have found that form good dense cover in the shade includes Ajuga reptans - Bugle,  Lamium maculatum - Spotted Dead Nettle,  Sedem spurium - Caucasian Stonecrop, Vinca major -Perwinkle and  Stachys officinalis - Betony.

Lamium maculatum spreading well under a Morus alba -  Mulberry 

C4 and other Grasses 

Another great option for mulch production is perennial grasses that produce large amounts of biomass, can grow on poor to average soils are drought-tolerant, reproduce via rhizomatous growth and have seed ripening from late June onwards or have sterile seed. C4 grasses are even more suitable - For more on C4 plants see here

Two plants that appear most suitable are Miscanthus x giganteus (C4) and Arundo donax (C3). In an experiment, you can find here recorded yields of biomass were 40 t/ha/yr in M.giganteus and 30 t/ha/yr in A.donax.

Scaling up Mulch Production 

In order to grow enough mulch to provide a water-retaining, weed excluding barrier for my annual and nursery beds I would certainly need more space. A larger wetland area would be ideal, with aquatic species growing very fast and the seed-bearing parts of the plants being nonproblematic to use on terrestrial beds. If you don't have a reliable aquatic habitat, the next best option for growing quantities of mulch without irrigation and fertilization is probably grass.

You can find a plan to grow enough mulch to support approx 670 fruit trees and 1360 soft fruit shrubs for a 5ha Agroforestry Project in a previous post here.

Alley Cropping Site Design 

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Definitions of Annual, Biennial, Perennial, and Ephemeral

Definitions of Annual, Biennial, Perennial, and Ephemeral

Annuals

Annuals are plants that go through their entire life cycle in one growing season.

Hardy annuals are plants that go through their entire life cycle in one season and that can be sown outside in the open garden in spring where it is to flower, for example, Centaurea cyanus – cornflower.

Centaurea cyanus - Cornflower


Half-hardy annuals are plants that die if exposed to the cold, so they can’t go into the garden until after the last frost and should be sown indoors in spring. They’ll keep going until killed by the first autumn frost. For example, Tagetes erecta - African Marigold.

Tagetes erecta - African Marigold

Biennials

Biennial are plants whose life cycle spans two years, so they flower and produce seeds in their second year. An example of a biennial is Armoracia rusticana - Horseradish.  

 Armoracia rusticana - Horseradish.

Perennials 

Perennials are plants that live for more than two years.


Woody perennials are plants that exhibit secondary growth resulting in wood i.e all trees and shrubs such as Cornus mas - Cornellian Cherry 

Cornus mas - Cornellian Cherry 


Herbaceous perennial are non-woody plants that die back to a rootstock each autumn and regrow in the following spring. For example, Comfrey - Symphytum uplandicum or Narcissus poeticus - Daffodil.


Comfrey - Symphytum x uplandicum 'Bocking 14'

.
Welcome to our Online Store where you can find Forest Garden/ Permaculture plants, seeds, bulbs and Polyculture multi-packs along with digital goods and services such as Online Courses, Webinars, eBooks, and Online Consultancy.  We hope you enjoy the store and find something you like :) It's your purchases that keep our Project going. Yuu can also find our full list of trees. shrubs and herbs for forest gardens on our website here 

Ephemerals

Ephemeral  plants can complete several life cycles in a growing season if correct weather conditions are present, for example, the delicious wild edible Stellaria media - Chickweed.  

Chickweed - Stellaria media

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Thursday, 13 November 2014

Wood Ash: Natural Fertiliser for the Ecological Garden/Farm

In this blog post, we will explore the benefits and uses of wood ash as a natural source of potassium fertilizer and pH raiser for your garden. Wood ash is an excellent way to keep soil pH at optimal levels and provide essential nutrients to your plants. We will also provide some tips on how to use wood ash effectively in your garden and things to consider before applying it to your soil. So if you're looking for a natural and affordable way to improve your soil quality, read on! 

Wood Ash: Potassium Fertiliser 

Ash from wood fires, such as bonfires or wood burning stoves, provide a natural source of potassium (K) and other trace elements. Potassium is a major plant nutrient associated with flowering and fruiting. The levels of potassium in ash will vary depending on the age of the wood that was burnt; young wood from pruning will have higher potassium content than older, thicker branches.


Wood Ash: Raising  pH

Soil pH is the measure of the acidity (sourness) or alkalinity (sweetness) of a soil. A simple numerical scale is used to express pH. The scale goes from 0.0 to 14.0, with 0.0 being most acidic, and 14.0 being most alkaline. The value, 7.0 is neutral - i.e., neither acid or alkaline.

Applying wood ash to your soil will raise the pH, reducing the acidity of soils. The majority of vegetables grow best in soils with a pH of 6.5, so testing the level before adding the ash is recommended so as not to raise the pH too much (greater than pH 7.0). However, where club root is present, wood ash can be used to raise the pH to as much as 7.5 to inhibit this disease and still provide good conditions for plant growth.
Intensive vegetable production tends to push soils to the acidic side of the scale, so the addition of ash can help to keep pH at optimal levels whilst providing essential nutrients to your plants.

Most fruits perform best in slightly acidic soil so be aware of the current soil pH and optimal pH of your fruits before applying ash. High pH can be detrimental to acid loving fruits such as blueberries and cranberries. Below is a list of optimal pH ranges for some common fruits and vegetables.  

Table showing optimal pH range for Fruits and Vegetables 

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Ultimately, it aims to build a more intimate, interactive, and actionable relationship between members, a way for the Bloom Room community to support each other’s projects and learning journeys, and to encourage and facilitate the design, build, and management of more regenerative landscapes across our planet.

What you can expect as a member of the Bloom Room

As a member of the Bloom Room you can expect;

  • Access to an interactive forum where you can ask questions,  direct what type of content you would like to see as well as share your own content and projects.

  • Monthly live session featuring general Q&A and tutorials on design software for creating and presenting polycultures.

  • Full Access to all of the content on Substack

  • Future opportunities to join our Global Regenerative Landscape Design and Consultancy Service, with potential roles for those with the will and skill to join our design team.

  • An opportunity to take part in the group ownership of a Regenerative Landscape. You will find more details on that here.

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When to use wood ash

If applying wood ash directly to soils, do this in the winter and rake or dig it in lightly to allow the compounds in the ash (which could scorch plants) to react with the moist soil and be rendered harmless before spring sowing or planting.

You can use wood ash in your compost piles at anytime of the year, applying a sprinkling on top of every 15 cm of material. Heavier use risks the presence of high levels of alkalinity and soluble salts which could damage both plants and the soil.

Wood ash can also be used to reduce the acidity in a worm farm. Worms dislike acidic conditions and prefer neutral pH (7). They will stop breeding and start to migrate from the farm if acidic conditions persist. How much ash you use is determined by the size of your worm farm  and the current pH. Having a pH reader and experimenting with quantities of ash is a good way to maintain optimal conditions in the worm farm.  

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Want to learn how to design, build and manage regenerative landscapes? Join us on our Regenerative Landscape Design - Online Interactive Course. We look forward to providing you with the confidence, inspiration, and opportunity to design, build and manage regenerative landscapes, gardens, and farms that produce food and other resources for humans while enhancing biodiversity.



You can access the course material at anytime and join the live sessions and interactive forums that run from May - Oct every year. All members of the Bloom Room receive a 500 EUR discount. To take up this offer all you have to do is become an annual subscribers to our Substack and register here with the promo code BLOOM. I look forward to you joining !


How to use wood ash

Wood ash can be spread directly on soil in the vegetable garden in late winter at a rate of 50-70 g per sq m; Fork in, rake over or add to chicken tractors and the chickens will work it into the soil for you. It may be useful to sieve the ash before use to remove debris.

Where wood ash is applied frequently to the vegetable plots, it is worthwhile to use a pH test kit to monitor changes in pH and prevent levels rising over pH 7.5
Never leave wood ash in the rain, as the potassium (a useful plant nutrient for flowers and fruit) is in a soluble form and is easily leached out
Apply wood ash in small amounts to the compost heap where, once mixed in, it will blend readily with other materials. As a general guide, you should not be able to identify it after mixing it into the compost.



Things to consider 

  • Avoid using too much wood ash as an excess in alkalinity can be detrimental to some plants.
  • Avoid using ash from treated timber as they may contain potentially harmful residues.
  • Avoid using wood ash on areas where potatoes are to be grown the following spring, as the alkaline conditions can encourage potato scab
  • Ash from coal or anthracite has little or no nutritional benefit and is potentially harmful to soil, plants and consumers of edible produce. 
  • Ash from lump wood charcoal can be used as recommended for wood ashes.

Support Our Project 

If you appreciate the work we are doing you can show your support in several ways.

  • Become a member of the Bloom RoomA $70 annual or $7 per month subscription to our Substack provides you with access to live sessions, design tutorials, a members forum and more, see details here.

  • Make a purchase of plants or seeds from our Nursery or Online Store 

  • Joining us for one of our Practical Courses or Online Courses

  • Comment, like, and share our content on social media.


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We offer a diversity of plants and seeds for permaculture, forest gardens and regenerative landscapes including a range of fruit and nut cultivars. We Deliver all over Europe from Nov - March. - Give a happy plant a happy home :)


Our Bio-Nursery - Permaculture/Polyculture/ Regenerative Landscape Plants