I'll start the post with why we prepare our ground in advance of planting then we will look at the goal of the trial, overview of the trial garden, overview of the trial itself and finally present the trial results.
Why we prepare our ground in advance of planting
When planting trees and shrubs into grassland or fields previously used for agriculture, I prefer to prepare the area at least 6 months ahead of planting - 12 months is even better. We often prepare the planting zones in early spring for late Autumn planting. I call this "advance planting preparation" or APP for short.
Advance Planting Preparation - (APP)
The benefits for APP include the following :-
- It's generally acknowledged that early succession plants such as grass and forb prefer bacterial dominated soils whereas trees and shrubs prefer fungal. By preparing soils in advance of planting you can alter soil conditions to that which trees and shrubs are more accustomed to. A great way of shifting the soil ecology from bacterial to fungal is to deep mulch the planting zone with high carbon material such as wood chip (preferably ramial wood chip) or with straw at least 6 - 12 months before planting out. If you live in urban areas ramial wood chip should be very easy to get hold of from your local tree surgeon (often free of charge). In rural areas straw should be available and spoiled straw that has been exposed to the rain during winter is often freely available as it cannot be used for animal bedding.
- Grass can compete vigorously with trees and shrubs for nutrients and water. The application of heavy mulches reduces or in some cases eliminates the existing vegetation without the need of heavy digging work or the use of tractors and machinery. The vegetation that is suppressed by the mulch decomposes along with the mulch and adds to the fertility of the soil and improves soil structure.
- You can reduce the expense of time preparing compost or the cost of purchasing it by using fresh manure or other fresh organic matter layered as sheet mulch. Doing so 6 - 12 months ahead of planting allows enough time for the material to decompose in situ to levels that are not harmful to plants.
- Mulch provides good habitat for a range of invertebrates many of which are beneficial in our garden ecosystems. Slugs and snails will also shelter in the mulch and this often attracts slow worms, toads, frogs and lizards that feed on them under the safety of the cover. Ground beetles and a range of spiders will also make home in the mulch and perhaps the most beneficial of all the soil dwelling organisms, earthworms, will settle and multiply under the mulch slowly bringing the material down into the soil, providing micro drainage, improving structure and creating some of the best plant fertiliser around - vermi-compost.
- When using green manures you do not find the above benefits, but green manure can improve the soil fertility, relieve compaction, improve the soil structure providing better drainage and water retention, suppress weeds and attract beneficial insects and pest predators.
An excellent green manure - Sainfoin - Onobrychis viciifolia |
Things to Consider with APP
- For large areas you often need to apply large quantities of mulch and manures which means importing from offsite. If you can tap into local waste streams (as mentioned above) this is fine but it some places it can be expensive to purchase and transport these materials.
- Plants that grow via rhizomes and runners such as brambles and couch grass may grow through or around the sheet mulches and green manure cover. This can be overcome by removing these plants before mulching, or spot weeding as they reappear. If the area is dominated by pernicious weeds it's probably best to take the time to remove them before mulching or sowing.
- On heavy clay (especially compacted clay) applying mulch to the surface is not very effective as is not easily naturally incorporated into the clay. Furthermore the clay layer can form a barrier or "pan" that prohibits plant root growth and water percolation. In such cases it's necessary to incorporate the organic matter into the soil via double digging or deep ploughing the area, adding the organic matter and then rotary tilling. The initial work is intensive but it is a one off investment in time and energy, and following this applying organic matter/mulch to the surface will work (so long as the area is not compacted again).
- On all compacted soils it's worth breaking the compaction and relieving any hardpan that may be present before adding mulch.
- In most situations it's necessary to prepare a seed bed when using green manures and this often entails ploughing and tilling the area for large areas or digging over and raking for small areas.
- Always apply a mulch following periods of heavy rain or water the area well beforehand to ensure the soil is well hydrated. This will activate the microbiology in the soil that play a critical role in nutrient cycling.
Welcome to our Online Store where you can find Forest Garden/ Permaculture plants, seeds, bulbs and Polyculture multi-packs along with digital goods and services such as Online Courses, Webinars, eBooks, and Online Consultancy. We hope you enjoy the store and find something you like :) It's your purchases that keep our Project going. Yuu can also find our full list of trees. shrubs and herbs for forest gardens on our website here
The Goal of this Trial
Our goal for this study is to establish APP methods that are inexpensive, time efficient and that will provide the optimal conditions for the incoming plants.
Based on what we have available at our site we decided to try the following 5 methods
1. Inverted Sod and Mulch - A layer of inverted sod placed on existing vegetation and topped with mulch
2. Green Manure - Ploughing - Tilling - Sowing (Clover - Sainfoin)
3. Fork over and Sheet Mulch - Forking over applying card layer topping with fresh manure and covering with mulch
4. Sheet Mulch - Applying card layer to exisiting vegetation topping with fresh manure and covering with straw mulch
5. Straw Mulch - Applying a layer of straw mulch to existing vegetation
Before we go on to profile each of these methods, here's an overview of the garden we are working on and a description of the trial.
Overview of the Trial Garden
Area: 350 m2
Climate: Temperate
Köppen Climate Classification - Dfc borderline Cfb
USDA Hardiness Zone: 5b
Latitude: 42°
Elevation: 571 m
Average Annual Rainfall: 598 mm
Prevailing Wind: NW & NE
Garden Name: Ataraxia- Perennial Polyculture Trial Beds
The trail site before and after. The mini digger in the background is digging a pond on the plot and has nothing to do with this trial. |
In April 2017 we began the development of our trial garden - Ataraxia. In this garden we grow a range of fruit trees and shrubs mixed with habitat for wildlife and support species to reduce pests and disease, and we are attempting to support the crop production by growing support plants that provide nutrition to the crops such as nitrogen fixing plants, mineral repositors and biomass plants. (See here for planting schemes)
We combine the plants and habitat together in polycultures and experiment with these polycultures in order to discover best practices that can produce nutritious affordable food while enhancing biodiversity.
Overview of The Trial
Perennial Polyculture Trial Beds |
Sophie mowing the pathways in early spring |
The perennial polyculture trial beds - 6 beds - 1.5m wide and 25m long with 50 cm internal pathways and 1m wide periphery pathways. A is on the far right.
|
Regenerative Landscape Design - Online Interactive Course
Want to learn how to design, build and manage regenerative landscapes? Join us on our Regenerative Landscape Design - Online Interactive Course. We look forward to providing you with the confidence, inspiration, and opportunity to design, build and manage regenerative landscapes, gardens, and farms that produce food and other resources for humans while enhancing biodiversity.
You can find the course details here and at the moment we have a $350 ( 20%) discount for full enrollment to the course. Just use RLD2024 in the promo code section of the registration form to receive your discount.
Our five methods for advance planting preparations
1. Inverted Sod - Bed A
2. Green Manure - Bed B
To boost the organic matter content of the soils, the green manure should be cut at regular intervals and plowed into the soil or covered with a straw mulch before planting occurs. In such cases the green manure used should be a fast growing annual cover. An alternative is to sow a perennial cover, cut back at regular intervals (once established) and plant the crops directly into the living mulch.
We sowed the following seeds onto the prepared bed on the 18th May.
Trifolium repens - White Clover 200 g - Perennial
Tagetes patula 100 g - Annual
Onobrychis viciifolia - Sainfoin 100 g - Perennial
During dry periods irrigation may be necessary,
1.5 m wide plough followed by rotary till prepares the bed for green manure |
Hand sowing the cover crop onto the surface |
The use of cover crops to prepare beds for perennial polycultures is something we'll be experimenting with more in the future.
3. Fork over and Sheet Mulch
Forking over the bed, placing a layer of card and cloth, adding 30 L of manure and covering with 15-20 cm deep layer of straw. |
4. Sheet Mulch- Cardboard layer, manure layer , straw layer
5. Straw Bales
Want to learn more about Regenerative Landscape Design? Join The Bloom Room!
The Bloom Room is designed to create a space for more in-depth learning, for sharing projects and ideas, for seeking advice and discovering opportunities.
Ultimately, it aims to build a more intimate, interactive, and actionable relationship between members, a way for the Bloom Room community to support each other’s projects and learning journeys, and to encourage and facilitate the design, build, and management of more regenerative landscapes across our planet.
What you can expect as a member of the Bloom Room
As a member of the Bloom Room you can expect;
Access to an interactive forum where you can ask questions, direct what type of content you would like to see as well as share your own content and projects.
Monthly live session featuring general Q&A and tutorials on design software for creating and presenting polycultures.
Live session every month for members to showcase your projects, plans, designs, and gardens, with guest speakers from the community.
Full Access to all of the content on Substack
A 50% discounts on all of our online courses
Future opportunities to join our Global Regenerative Landscape Design and Consultancy Service, with potential roles for those with the will and skill to join our design team.
An opportunity to take part in the group ownership of a Regenerative Landscape. You will find more details on that here.
Become a paid subscriber to our Substack to join. The annual subscription is currently $70 and the monthly subscription is $7 (monthly subscription excludes discounts for products and services) . You can join here, we look forward to meeting you!
Access to an interactive forum where you can ask questions, direct what type of content you would like to see as well as share your own content and projects.
Monthly live session featuring general Q&A and tutorials on design software for creating and presenting polycultures.
Live session every month for members to showcase your projects, plans, designs, and gardens, with guest speakers from the community.
Full Access to all of the content on Substack
A 50% discounts on all of our online courses
Future opportunities to join our Global Regenerative Landscape Design and Consultancy Service, with potential roles for those with the will and skill to join our design team.
An opportunity to take part in the group ownership of a Regenerative Landscape. You will find more details on that here.
What and Why we Record
Our goal for this study is to establish APP methods that are inexpensive, time efficient and that will provide the optimal conditions for the incoming plants.
- Time to Implement - How long it takes to implement each method
- Time to Manage - How long it takes to manage each method up to the point of planting - i.e mowing, weeding, irrigation.
- Materials Needed - Materials required for each method
- Cost of Each Method - How much each method costs to implement
- Soil Mineral Analysis - Annual samples are taken and sent NAAS of the Ministry of Agriculture and Food. These samples are compared to base sample taken before work began in Autumn 2016
- Soil Physical Analysis - Annual soil tests are carried out on each bed. The analysis includes a series of 9 simple tests that are designed to provide an indication of soil health based on observable physical properties of the soil. You can find instructions on how to carry out this test here. These tests are compared to a base sample we took before the trail began. Higher marks on the test indicate improved soil conditions.
The Results- Record of Inputs
Time to Implement
Here are the total number of minutes we spent on each APP method.
Time to Manage
The management time is recorded from after establishing the beds until the point that we plant out. Management tasks include weeding the mulched beds and in the case of the green manure trial cutting back the vegetation in the following spring after planting. The weeding is carried out to check the most vigorous plants that grow through the mulch so there will be little competition for our incoming productive plants. The weeds are collected and composted and applied back the beds later.
Cost Analysis
Here are the costs of each of the methods
The Results - Soil Analysis
Soil Mineral Analysis
Here are the results of the soil mineral analysis including the base test and a test for each of the beds.
Soil Physical Analysis
Summary of Results
Let's look at which method performed best and worst in each of the categories we tested.
Time to Implement - No surprise in that APP method 5. Straw Mulch was the fastest to implement and that APP method 3. Fork over and Sheet Mulch took the longest.
Time to Manage - APP method 2. Green Manure took the least amount of time to manage and APP method 3. Fork over and Sheet Mulch - took the longest amount of time to manage. Although it's safe to say that APP method 2. Green Manure does in fact take the least amount of time to manage for the other beds the data is not useful as the weeding was carried out by different people at a different pace. If we did this again it would be better to recording individual times and take an average. It is worth noting however that adding a layer of card below the straw mulch is as effective at suppressing weeds as doubling up on straw without a card layer.
Personally I prefer to allow weeds to establish and use them as a resource. All the time weeds are growing in your beds they are transforming sunlight, water, oxygen and carbon dioxide into biomass, biomass that can be used to feed the soil and create fertility. I consider the weeds support plants and only feel it necessary to remove them when they may cause competitive stress to the productive plants. The point of weeding in this trial was to compare how well each method checked weed growth and it seems very clear to me that none of the methods are suitable. The time it takes to weed the beds is very high making this restrictive for large scale operations. In order to heavily reduce weed growth an alternative option is to use heavy duty landscapers mat which allows water and gasses to enter the soil whilst restricting weed growth (plant seed that blows in with the wind will still establish). I'd saying growing weeds for support and devising better tools for chop and drop is the way forward for perennial polyculture.
Another thing to mention here is that in the sheet mulched beds we actually introduced some pernicious weeds with the manure, specifically Cynodon dactylon - Bermuda Grass which spreads to form a mat and is difficult to remove. Composting the manure in a hot compost pile can kill these weed seeds but is very time intensive and perhaps placing the card over the manure rather than under the manure may slow them but i'm sure the seeds will germinate after the card has decomposed. We're trying out a method where we cover the beds with greenhouse plastic during a hot summers week.We'll see whether this will destroy the roots of the plants too.
Cost of Each Method - The least expensive was APP method 1. Inverted Sod and Mulch this is the case as long as you have the top soil on site. The most expensive was APP method 2. Green Manure.
Based on the results of the soil analysis we can get an idea which method provided the optimal conditions for the incoming plants.
Thank you Fergus Webster, Gabriele Landi, Chris Mallorie, Ute Villavicencio, Charlie Morton, Chris Kirby-Lambert, Simon, Kartini, Karl and Marlene, William Kunkle, Rosa Van Giessen, Peter, Stephen and Sonny Alfrey, Angela Rice, Malcolm Cannon, Victoria Bezhitashvili, Elise Bijl, Alex Camilleri, Daniel Stradner, Emilce Nonquepan
Support Our Project
If you appreciate the work we are doing you can show your support in several ways.
Become a member of the Bloom Room. A $70 annual or $7 per month subscription to our Substack provides you with access to live sessions, design tutorials, a members forum and more, see details here.
Make a purchase of plants or seeds from our Nursery or Online Store
Joining us for one of our Practical Courses or Online Courses
Comment, like, and share our content on social media.
If you appreciate the work we are doing you can show your support in several ways.
Become a member of the Bloom Room. A $70 annual or $7 per month subscription to our Substack provides you with access to live sessions, design tutorials, a members forum and more, see details here.
Make a purchase of plants or seeds from our Nursery or Online Store
Joining us for one of our Practical Courses or Online Courses
Comment, like, and share our content on social media.
An amazing piece of research from the Balkan Project. keep up the good work. I've been trying with mixed success and quite a bit of failure to claim back 20 years of agricultural usage and 10 years of dereliction on an acre plot. This piece of research has probably save me a year of experimentation
ReplyDeleteHi Corinne
DeleteThank you and good luck with your project :)
Really excellent trial, thank you! Your results resonate with me very well. I have found compost as well as sheet mulching to be more effective after a few years. Also, different to the purpose of green manure somewhat I have found cover crop can provide some protection for young trees I plant by providing more humidity, wind protection and shade in my harsh summer climate helping them to establish.
ReplyDeleteHi Aneurine, thanks for sharing your experience.
ReplyDelete