In this blog post, we will explore the benefits and uses of wood ash as a natural source of potassium fertilizer and pH raiser for your garden. Wood ash is an excellent way to keep soil pH at optimal levels and provide essential nutrients to your plants. We will also provide some tips on how to use wood ash effectively in your garden and things to consider before applying it to your soil. So if you're looking for a natural and affordable way to improve your soil quality, read on!
Wood Ash: Potassium Fertiliser
Ash from wood fires, such as bonfires or wood burning stoves, provide a natural source of potassium (K) and other trace elements. Potassium is a major plant nutrient associated with flowering and fruiting. The levels of potassium in ash will vary depending on the age of the wood that was burnt; young wood from pruning will have higher potassium content than older, thicker branches.
Wood Ash: Raising pH
Soil pH is the measure of the acidity (sourness) or alkalinity (sweetness) of a soil. A simple numerical scale is used to express pH. The scale goes from 0.0 to 14.0, with 0.0 being most acidic, and 14.0 being most alkaline. The value, 7.0 is neutral - i.e., neither acid or alkaline.
Applying wood ash to your soil will raise the pH, reducing the acidity of soils. The majority of vegetables grow best in soils with a pH of 6.5, so testing the level before adding the ash is recommended so as not to raise the pH too much (greater than pH 7.0). However, where club root is present, wood ash can be used to raise the pH to as much as 7.5 to inhibit this disease and still provide good conditions for plant growth.
Intensive vegetable production tends to push soils to the acidic side of the scale, so the addition of ash can help to keep pH at optimal levels whilst providing essential nutrients to your plants.
Most fruits perform best in slightly acidic soil so be aware of the current soil pH and optimal pH of your fruits before applying ash. High pH can be detrimental to acid loving fruits such as blueberries and cranberries. Below is a list of optimal pH ranges for some common fruits and vegetables.
Table showing optimal pH range for Fruits and Vegetables
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When to use wood ash
If applying wood ash directly to soils, do this in the winter and rake or dig it in lightly to allow the compounds in the ash (which could scorch plants) to react with the moist soil and be rendered harmless before spring sowing or planting.
You can use wood ash in your compost piles at anytime of the year, applying a sprinkling on top of every 15 cm of material. Heavier use risks the presence of high levels of alkalinity and soluble salts which could damage both plants and the soil.
Wood ash can also be used to reduce the acidity in a worm farm. Worms dislike acidic conditions and prefer neutral pH (7). They will stop breeding and start to migrate from the farm if acidic conditions persist. How much ash you use is determined by the size of your worm farm and the current pH. Having a pH reader and experimenting with quantities of ash is a good way to maintain optimal conditions in the worm farm.
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Wood ash can be spread directly on soil in the vegetable garden in late winter at a rate of 50-70 g per sq m; Fork in, rake over or add to chicken tractors and the chickens will work it into the soil for you. It may be useful to sieve the ash before use to remove debris.
Where wood ash is applied frequently to the vegetable plots, it is worthwhile to use a pH test kit to monitor changes in pH and prevent levels rising over pH 7.5
Never leave wood ash in the rain, as the potassium (a useful plant nutrient for flowers and fruit) is in a soluble form and is easily leached out
Apply wood ash in small amounts to the compost heap where, once mixed in, it will blend readily with other materials. As a general guide, you should not be able to identify it after mixing it into the compost.
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Things to consider
Avoid using too much wood ash as an excess in alkalinity can be detrimental to some plants.
Avoid using ash from treated timber as they may contain potentially harmful residues.
Avoid using wood ash on areas where potatoes are to be grown the following spring, as the alkaline conditions can encourage potato scab
Ash from coal or anthracite has little or no nutritional benefit and is potentially harmful to soil, plants and consumers of edible produce.
Ash from lump wood charcoal can be used as recommended for wood ashes.
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Perhaps a motivational force behind the creation of a forest garden may be attributed to the egotistical tendencies of Homo sapiens. It could be that the act of creating perennial, self-generating ecosystems that survive as a living legacy to our temporal existence is a glory lure. In any case, its a form of glory-seeking that I hope catches on :)
Narcissistic tendencies aside, its always a huge pleasure to watch a plant you have grown from seed mature to the stage where it is ready to take its permanent position in the soil. Even more so when that plant is a long-lived species that will likely be standing proud for your great-grandchildren to admire.
Seeing the window of opportunity to plant trees is closing I thought I would put together a step by step guide to planting out including a few things to consider before and after planting.
Tree Planting Guide
Planting out Guide
A few things to consider before planting
The best time to plant is when the soil is moist after a rain. If the soil is very wet, treading can cause compaction so avoid working on very wet soils particularly if you have clay.
In choosing the position for your plant bear in mind the light, fertility, water, temperature, space and community needs of the organism.
Consider the maximum size of the plant and how it will relate to the surroundings of the position you have chosen.
For plants that require cross-pollination or are dioecious you will need to consider the pollination needs and make sure you have a pollinator in the vicinity.
If you are planting bare-rooted plants ensure that the roots are not exposed to direct sunlight for too long and that they do not dry out.
Planting instructions
Dig your hole sufficiently big to allow some space around the root ball or roots i.e do not cram the plant into a small hole. Twice the diameter of your pot is adequate.
When digging, separate the topsoil and subsoil layers. This is best achieved by placing two boards or tarps next to your hole. Dig the topsoil out and pile it on one board/tarp, now dig the subsoil out and pile it on the second board/tarp.
Make sure the bottom and sides of your hole are not compacted from digging. If there are any smeared surfaces, scrap them loose with a fork. This ensures easier access into the soil for establishing roots as well as providing good drainage and air spaces.
Water the empty hole well and allow time for the water to drain away. If your plant is in a container then rough up the sides of the root ball. The purpose of this is to ensure the fine roots make good contact with the soil when you infill the planting hole.
Due to the fast-draining sandy loam, I normally work with I plant a little lower than ground level to provide a dish for water to collect in. If you have poorly draining soil (heavy clay) and or a high water table then you should consider planting higher then ground level.
If your planting site has a history of intensive application of fungicides you should re-establish the Mycorrhizal community. Mycorrhizas are symbiotic relationships between fungi and plant roots (the term means literally 'fungus root'). They are very common on crop plants as well as in wild plant communities, and in several cases, they have been shown to be important or even essential for plant performance. The fungus obtains at least some of its sugars from the plant, while the plant benefits from the efficient uptake of mineral nutrients (or water) by the fungal hyphae. You can reestablish the Mycorrhizal community by simply adding half a spade full of soil from a healthy soil ecosystem nearby which should contain many of the beneficial fungal organisms. Mix the healthy soil with your pile of topsoil.
Picture shows how the plant can draw upon a much larger pool of soil resources with the assistance of mycorrhizal fungi
Backfill the hole with the subsoil first, pack the soil in firmly around the roots or rootball and then add the topsoil, again tampering the soil firmly to ensure good contact is made between soil and roots. The idea behind keeping the soil layers in order is to create minimum disturbance to the existing soil ecology. It may just look like plain earth but there are a myriad of organisms at work in there.
You can remove surrounding vegetation to approximately 50cm radius of the plant stem so you end up with a circle of bare earth approx 1m diameter with your plant in the center. If your plant is small then you can make this area smaller.
Imagine which way the water would flow across the land surrounding your plant and pile up the organic matter you have scraped away from the surface along with any leftover soil to create a barrier that will block the water from moving away from the plant. You want to keep the water around the plant where it can drain into the soil slowly and soak through to the roots below the ground. It may be that on flat ground you need a barrier surrounding the plant creating a dish in which the water fills. If you have a low water table, lots of rain in your area and poor draining clay soil then this is not advisable.
Water the plant again applying more water then you think you will need and watch to see how well the water stays around the plant root zone. If you see the water escaping make some amendments to your barrier.
Once the plant is watered apply mature compost, approx 2-3 cm deep, covering the bare earth and place wet cardboard sheets or old clothing or cloth over the compost. If more than one piece of cardboard is needed, overlap the cardboard so there are no gaps. This layer provides a barrier to prevent weed seeds in the soil from germinating and will decompose to add extra fertility to the soil. You can also buy mulch mats.
Cover the cardboard/cloth with a further 3cm of well-matured compost and then cover this with a 10cm layer of straw mulch (or other seedless mulch).
In order to prevent collar rot, it is very important to make sure that the soil and mulch layers are not in direct contact with the bark around the base of the stem. To allow air circulation, be sure to clear away the mulch and compost from that area so that you end up with a visible gap of at least 5 cm between stem and soil. You should check this every so often as the mulch usually makes its way back around the collar
Aftercare considerations
If planted in Autumn it is likely that your new plants will not need watering until the mid-spring. Keep an eye on your plant and water if you see/feel the soil below the mulch is dry. It's important to keep the plant from drying out in the first few years so plan time to monitor. 90% of all problems with newly-planted trees are because the steward didn't water them.
If planting a tree whip, according to some reports and contrary to popular belief, staking is not necessary. It is claimed to be counterproductive and discourages a young tree from forming strong and secure anchor roots. Large container trees will, however, need staking.
Tree barriers are recommended to prevent herbivores from eating your plants, so if you have a lot of herbivores around you should consider using guards.
Check your plant from time to time and make sure the mulch has not made its way back around the stem collar. Keep the area weed-free for a few years by topping up the cardboard and if you have planted a tree with high nutrient demands apply extra compost the following autumn.
Finally, enjoy your plant.
We have a great selection of trees, shrubs and herbs reared at our small but growing Bio Nursery. We can deliver plants to anywhere in Europe so take a look at our stock list and get in touch to make an order,
We're super excited about running the course and look forward to providing you with the confidence, inspiration, and opportunity to design, build and manage regenerative landscapes, gardens, and farms that produce food and other resources for humans while enhancing biodiversity.
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You may have come across small pinkish maggots in a plum before. The
maggots are
often found near the stone accompanied by tiny parcels of dark
coloured material. These are Grapholita funebrana,
the Plum Moth and more specifically, the caterpillar (larva) of the Plum
Moth. The dark coloured material is their droppings (frass).
Larva of Grapholita funebrana (Plum Moth) observed in early - mid summer
During this post we'll look at the life cycle of the Plum moth and some ways to prevent them in the biological garden.
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Whilst picking plums in late August from a plum tree in our garden I noticed that the Plum Moth larvae so
frequently found in the early ripening fruit from July - early August
were absent from the later ripening fruits. I assumed it must have
something to do with the organism's life cycle and so embarked upon a
little research to find out more.
G. funebrana (Plum Moth) emerges from a cocoon as an
adult moth from late May - mid July. The adult moths mate with each
other and the females then proceed to lay their eggs on the small
ripening fruits. Caterpillars (larvae) hatch from these eggs, tunnel
into the fruits and feed on the "flesh" around the stone until fully
fed. At this point the caterpillar (larva) emerges from the fruit and
finds a cozy concealed spot either in the tree, on surrounding fallen
dead branches or in the soil. Here they spin a silk cocoon (pupa) in
which they overwinter, emerging as adults in the spring. If
climatic conditions are favourable, some first generation caterpillars may pupate early and emerge as adults later on inthe same season, laying their eggs in the
ripe fruits. Three generations during spring and summer have been reported in some
places.
Adult Grapholita funebrana 4 -7.5 mm long
We always have a long warm summer here and two
generations are likely. It seems the bulk of our plums ripen before the
second generation can begin to
do
damage. The early plums that are infected make good fruit for drying.
We cut the fruit in two, collect the larva for the chickens, scrap off
the tiny amount of frass and leave to dry on a tray in the car with the windows slightly cracked. They are
delicious :)
In our gardens the plum moth does not really bother us, however when growing fruit on a larger scale this organism can cause significant loss
to a harvest. This specie and other members of the
genus Grapholita are commonly associated with many plants in the Prunus
Genus, and Grapholita funebrana is one of the most important lepidopteran pests of fruit in Europe. Larvae can cause significant damage to apricot, cherry, peach, plum, and other Prunus species. The following are signs of infestation:
Presence of eggs on fruit and fruit stalks.
Entry holes on fruit surface.
Dissecting a suspicious fruit may reveal larvae or frass in flesh near the seed.
An infested fruit may show symptoms such as discoloration, gummy
droplets oozing out of the caterpillar’s entry hole, premature ripening
and fruit drop.
Solutions
Having a good understanding of the "problem organism" is crucial to providing solutions and can help us in a number of ways
We may be able to prevent the organism becoming a problem altogether by
putting in place effective control measures that break the pest's life
cycle before it becomes a nuisance.
We will know at what stage an organism is going to inflict damage on a crop.
We will know when the organism is most vulnerable to means of control.
We will know what we are looking for and will be able to identify a problem early on.
To recap on the Plum Moth life cycle we have the following stages: Adult - Eggs - Larva (caterpillar)- Pupa (cocoon). At each stage it may be possible to reduce the population numbers.
The adults
are most active between 18 and 22°C. The moths rest on the tree leaves
during the day, becoming more active after sunset. The adult moths are
generally sexually active before sunrise and lay most of their eggs in
the evening. A healthy diverse garden/farm ecosystem will naturally
support many bird and bat species who feed on the adults moths and larval stages. We can focus these allies by
placing bird feeders in fruit trees particularly when the the
temperatures rise above 18C. Commonly
used commercially is the Phereomone trap. This trap gives off the
pheromone (the secreted or excreted chemical factor) of the female moths, thereby
attracting male moths and trapping them thus preventing mating. It's
costly and time consuming and is not100% effective.
The Eggs are deposited by adults around sundown at temperatures around 25°C. The females deposit 3 to
5 eggs per fruit. Eggs hatch in about 1 to 2 weeks. It's not at all practical to intercept at this stage.
The Larva
is the stage of the life cycle that one is most likely to come across
and can easily be removed with the infected fruit and destroyed, thereby
preventing future generations. The fact we feed the larvaa to the chickens when preparing the early fruit for drying prevents further propagation and is why it's important not to let
fallen fruit accumulate under a tree.
Pupa:The larvae
pupate in bark crevices or protected areas in the soil. Poultry are
expert foragers for small parcels of nutrients such as a pupa. By
arranging a coop around the base of your fruit trees during late May to mid July the poultry will scratch relentlessly for foods such as the
Pupae and deliver some welcome nutritional excrement whilst at it. Blue and Great Tits feed on the pupa and can be attracted to the trees with balls of fat and seeds. French research has found that an adult tit can consume 12000-18000 of hibernating moth caterpillars per year. Hanging feeders in trees during the winter is also of benefit.
Relentlessly at work in the compost pile.
We can also mitigate the damage done by these
organisms by considering the host plant. We may be able to establish good
control of the specie on our site, but if there are plums trees in
neighbouring gardens or wild plums in the windbreaks or hedgerows and the
fruit is unpicked, local populations may grow rapidly and soon be
looking for new breeding/feeding grounds.
When considering growing plums, it's well worth observing local plum trees and other host species for signs of the Plum
Moth. By studying the fruit of local wild plums or
organically grown plums along with average temperatures records,
you may be able to work out at what point the fruit ceases to be
infected and choose a variety that ripens during the time period
between generations. You may also observe that the wild fruits are not that troubled by these pests at all . It appears to me that many of the local wild plums Prunus cerasifera and Prunus insititia in the relatively undisturbed (wild) areas around us are largely unaffected by the Plum Moth but that the isolated trees in fields, garden trees and trees in poor locations (i.e compacted soils) tend to be targets. Perhaps trees in healthy communities can repel the moths in some way?
Prunus cerasifera - Myrobalan Plum / Cherry Plum
Susceptible Cultivars
Some Plum cultivars are noted for being more susceptible to damage from the Plum Moth such as Czar and Victoria as well as Amers, Anna Spath, Buhlertal Prune, Emma Leppermann, Italian Prune, Lowan, Stanley, Valjevka, Valor and Wangenheim Prune. (Agroforestry Research Trust Volume 9 No.1 pg3).
If you would like to learn more about Grapholita funebrana - Plum Moth , it is worth
noting that it is often referred to as Cydia funebrana in older literature.
We're super excited about running the course and look forward to providing you with the confidence, inspiration, and opportunity to design, build and manage regenerative landscapes, gardens, and farms that produce food and other resources for humans while enhancing biodiversity.
You can find out all about the course here and right now we have a 20% discount on the full enrollment fees. Just use the promo code RLD2023 in the section of the registration form to receive your discount.
We are looking forward to providing you with this unique online learning experience - as far as we know, the very first of its kind. If you are thinking of reasons why you should do this course and whether this course is suitable for you, take a look here where we lay it all out. Looking forward to it!
I am currently working on a Regenerative Landscape Design for a site in Todorovo, Bulgaria. The plan is to establish an Agroforestry system known as Alley Cropping wherein rows of mixed species of edible trees and shrubs are planted at intervals with spaces for herbs, forage, and/or grain crops to be grown in between. It's a dynamic system that is inherently diverse, providing multiple yields and excellent habitats for wildlife while at the same time being relatively resilient to a changing climate.
The site design - Paul Alfrey
An essential component of the design will be the Nitrogen fixing perennial plants within the community of fruit and nut trees. These plants will be pruned at regular intervals to provide biomass for surface mulch and to release a biological source of nitrogen to the surrounding productive plants and soil life by means of root shed associated with top pruning.
When selecting plants for the Nitrogen Fixing component of this design, I
was looking for species that could withstand record lows of -28 (Zone
5), tolerate some shade, were fast growing, tolerant of trimming and
coppicing, able to grow in clay soils, known to provide significant
quantities of nitrogen, easy to propagate from seed and provide some
food for humans and other animals. The following plants fit the criteria.
We are planning to grow the nitrogen-fixing plants for this site from seed and to involve the local community in doing so. Many local people, particularly the older generation are skilled
horticulturalists with many seasons of experience behind them. We hope to include a number of these people in the process of propagation, each one functioning as an individual unit. This will keep the propagation process small scale, making it far easier to use biological methods. The propagation will begin in the autumn as Elaeagnus spp. all require cold stratification unless they are sown immediately after they are picked. Caragana aborescens will be sown later.
The Benefits of Propagating from Seed
When I first started growing shrubs from seed I was pleasantly surprised at how fast the plants established. In my experience from growing these and other nitrogen-fixing shrubs, seeds germinating in the spring can establish well and be ready to plant out in the autumn of the same year (subject to species hardiness and, of course, the weather conditions in a given year). The following spring after autumn planting, I practice formative pruning to encourage the shrubs to become denser and by the third summer after sowing I have recorded growth of up 80cm high and 60cm wide specifically for Elaeagnus angustifolia . The growth I have witnessed from plants in my own stock has, in some instances, outperformed established 6-year-old plants I have growing in the garden, purchased from a commercial nursery.
When propagating from seed you have the advantage of selecting the strongest seedlings. Another significant reward is that you are promoting genetic diversity within your populations, something you are not likely to find in the majority of cloned nursery stock.
If you would like to grow your own nitrogen-fixing plants we have a supply of excellent seeds at very reasonable prices. (see below for more details).
Plants Profiles for the Nitrogen Fixing Component of this Design.
Elaeagnus angustfolia - Oleaster, Russian Olive
Overview: A deciduous large shrub or small tree from Europe and W.Asia, growing approx 7m high and 7m wide. Hardy to zone 2 (-40C), tolerates part shade, salt, and air pollution.
It has silvery branches often thorny, with silvery scales when young, silvery willow-like leaves, silvery flowers in June, and yellowish-silvery fruits ripening in October. Plants prefer continental climates.
This species is often cultivated in Europe and Asia for its edible fruits (there are many named varieties some of which are thornless). The plants begin to flower and fruit from three years old. It is very tolerant of pruning even right back into old wood. The flowers are sweetly scented. Fruits hang on the plant for much of the winter providing a valuable source of winter food for birds. The fruit is readily eaten and disseminated by many species of birds. This species is considered invasive in the United States.
Uses: Edible fruit -raw or cooked as a seasoning in soups. The taste is dry sweet and mealy. The oval fruits are about 10mm long and contain 17 amino acids with total sugars making 54%of the composition. In China they are made into a beverage
Expected fruit yields are 7-9kg per plant. The seed is edible raw or cooked. The seed oil, flowers and leaves are used medicinally. Plants can be grown as a hedge in exposed positions, tolerating maritime exposure. An essential oil obtained from the flowers is used in perfumery. A gum from the plant is used in the textile industry in calico printing. Leaves are used as goat and sheep fodder. The wood is hard, fine-grained and used for posts, beams, carving, domestic items and makes good fuel. The plant is attractive to bees and is known to be grown as a biomass crop on a 3 year rotation. In Pakistan it is valued as a pollard fuel and fodder crop.
Nitrogen Fixing Potential: This specie is classified by USDA as being a HIGH nitrogen fixer with estimated yields of 160+ lbs/acre or 72>kg/4050m²
Propagation:Establishment and reproduction of Elaeagnus angustifolia is primarily by seed, although some spread by vegetative propagation also occurs. Cold stratification required for 30-60 days.
Elaeagnus commutata - Silverberry, Wolfberry
Overview: A medium deciduous shrub from N.America, typically growing 3m high and 1.5m wide but sometimes double that. Hardy to zone 2 (-40C). Branches are thornless and reddish-brown, leaves are silvery on both sides . A profusion of fragrant silvery flowers appear in May-June, followed by round silvery fruits ripening in September. It typically grows on dry to moist sandy and gravel soils in steppes, meadows or woodland edges. It tolerates very alkaline soils. Plants prefer a continental climate. It can regenerate from old wood making it a good coppice plant. It resents root disturbance. Plants produce suckers quite freely often sending them up at some distance from the plant. Plants start to fruit often after 2 years.
Uses: edible fruit, raw or cooked, good with soups and for making jelly. Edible seed, raw or cooked. Plants can be grown as a hedge in an exposed position, tolerating maritime climate. The fibrous bark is used in weaving and rope making. Dried fruits are used as beads. Flowers provide nectar for bees. Cultivated as an ornamental plant for its silvery foliage.
Nitrogen Fixing Potential: The species is classified by USDA as being a MEDIUM nitrogen fixer with estimated yields of 85-160lbs/acre or 39-72kg/4050m²
Propagation: Seed is best sown as soon as it is ripe in a cold frame. It should germinate in late winter or early spring, though it may take 18 months. Stored seed can be very slow to germinate, often taking more than 18 months. A warm stratification for 4 weeks followed by 12 weeks cold stratification can help. The seed usually (eventually) germinates quite well.
Overview: A large deciduous shrub from E.Asia, growing 4.5m high and 4.5m wide, hardy to zone 3(-35C)
tolerates part shade, very drought tolerant. Branches are often thorny, leaves are bright green, silvery beneath. Yellowish white, fragrant flowers, are produced in May-June, followed by rounded silvery brown (ripening red) fruits in Sep-Oct. Sometimes cultivated for its edible fruit. There are many named cultivars. Flowers are rich nectar and very aromatic.Plants can fruit in 6 yrs from seed. This specie is considered weedy in the U.S
Uses: Edible fruit raw or cooked which is very tasty and can be made into jams, preserves etc. The fruit contains about 8.3% sugars. 4.5% protein. 12mg per 100mg Vitamin C. Mature bushes in the wild yield about 650KG of fruit over 2-3 pickings . The harvested fruit stores for appox. 15 days at room temperature. It can be used as a hedge plant and tolerates maritime exposure succeeding in the most exposed positions. The wood is a good fuel. The nectar from the flowers is attractive to bees comprising 28% sugars. The plant is used as a nurse tree, when planted with fruit trees it is reported to increase the overall yield of the orchard by 10%. It can also be grown as a biomass crop on a 3 year rotation.
Nitrogen Fixing Potential: The species is classified by USDA as being a MEDIUM nitrogen fixer with estimated yields of 85-160lbs/acre or 39-72kg/4050m²
Propagation:Seed - best sown as soon as it is ripe in a cold frame. It should germinate in late winter or early spring, though it may take 18 months. Stored seed can be very slow to germinate, often taking more than 18 months. A warm stratification for 4 weeks followed by 12 weeks cold stratification can help. The seed usually (eventually) germinates quite well. Prick out the seedlings into individual pot as soon as they are large enough to handle and plant out when they are at least 15cm tall.
Caragana arborescens - Siberian Pea Tree
Overview: . A deciduous shrub originating from Central Asia belonging to the Fabaceae (legume) family growing to 5-6m high and 4m wide with an upright habit. It is vigorous. Flowers are borne from buds on the previous years wood and are typical of flowers from this family. Flowering occurs in May. Pollination is via bees, usually wild bumble bees. Pods develop from flowers looking like small pea pods, they are 4-5 cm long. The pods ripen to amber or brown from June -July onwards and seeds fall by August. The plant is extremely hardy tolerating winter temperatures of -40 Hardiness zone 2. Prefers a continental climate witrh hot dry summers and cold winters.
Uses: The young pods are eaten as a vegetable, lightly cooked. The pods become tough later in the season. The seeds are rich in fats and proteins (12% and 36% respectively) about the size of lentils and can be cooked and used in any way that beans are used (the cooked flavour is somewhat bland, so best used in spicy dishes ). The young raw seeds have a pea-like flavour although it is not clear whether they should be eaten raw in much quantity. Widely used in windbreaks and shelter belts and used in wildlife-erosion control plantings stabilizing soil with an extensive root system. Good wildlife fodder and can be used to as poultry food. A fiber is obtained from the bark and used for rope making.
Nitrogen Fixing Potential: The species is classified by USDA as being a MEDIUM nitrogen fixer with estimated yields of 85-160lbs/acre or 39-72kg/4050m²
Propagation: Seedpropagation is the norm. Seeds germinate better after a short period of stratification and/or soaking in warm water prior to planting.
These species profiles include extracts by Martin Crawford, Director of Agroforestry Research Trust from the excellent quarterly publication Agroforestry News Vol.4 No.3. I highly recommend subscription to this journal as essential reading for all who are interested in temperate tree crops and agroforestry. Put a log ofKrugiodendron ferreum on top of an issue and it will still be worth its weight in gold :)
We're super excited about running the course and look forward to providing you with the confidence, inspiration, and opportunity to design, build and manage regenerative landscapes, gardens, and farms that produce food and other resources for humans while enhancing biodiversity.
You can find out all about the course here and right now we have a 20% discount on the full enrollment fees. Just use the promo code RLD2023 in the section of the registration form to receive your discount.
We are looking forward to providing you with this unique online learning experience - as far as we know, the very first of its kind. If you are thinking of reasons why you should do this course and whether this course is suitable for you, take a look here where we lay it all out. Looking forward to it!
A common and very reasonable complaint I hear of Agroecology (and by Agroecology I mean all the different brands and labels associated with this i.e biodynamics, permaculture, regenerative agriculture, regrarian, sustainable farming etc) is that there is a lack of research and experimental data to support the claims made by its proponents. There is, in fact, quite a lot of research undertaken regarding agroecological systems (see below) however it has not been disseminated effectively and is relatively difficult to access. I have not been able to find any research relevant to small scale that addresses the simplest of issues. I have
been looking for answers to what I consider to be very simple questions, such as how
productive is a four species annual guild in direct comparison to growing the same 4
species separately in the same amount of space with the same nutrient
and water inputs. I
decided this year to embark upon some self directed research, my modest efforts focusing
on recording the inputs and outputs for an annual herb and vegetable
guild (click here for an overview of this garden) and comparing this with available data from conventional practices. You can view the results here.
The Permaculture Association have taken the lead on promoting research for permaculture and have a dedicated section on their website, their aim being to "build a strong evidence base for permaculture and
improve permaculture practice". They have created a great booklet for
anyone wishing to undertake their own research. Its very easy to read
and purposefully designed to be accessible to everyone. Click here to view.
They have also launched the Permaculture Association's international soil tests a test that started in the UK last year and has now been extended to the international community. We are taking part in this.
If you are looking for peer reviewed research relevant to Agroecology, you will find much of interest from the below journals some of which are open access and available to everyone.
Agroforestry Research Trust publish an excellent quarterly journal. I highly recommend subscription to this journal as essential reading for all who are interested in temperate tree crops and agroforestry.
The The European Agroforestry Federation (EURAF) aims at promoting the use of trees on farms as well as any kind of silvopastoralism throughout the different environmental regions of Europe. EURAF publish an excellent book of abstracts on their website.
We're super excited about running the course and look forward to providing you with the confidence, inspiration, and opportunity to design, build and manage regenerative landscapes, gardens, and farms that produce food and other resources for humans while enhancing biodiversity.
You can find out all about the course here and right now we have a 20% discount on the full enrollment fees. Just use the promo code RLD2023 in the section of the registration form to receive your discount.
We are looking forward to providing you with this unique online learning experience - as far as we know, the very first of its kind. If you are thinking of reasons why you should do this course and whether this course is suitable for you, take a look here where we lay it all out. Looking forward to it!
